/diy/ — /wwg/ - woodworking general

feels good to be back boys, i got 10 more pickets drying in the garage for another planter. picked up the klein moisture meter for $50, wouldn't bet my life on the readings but overall i'm happy with it

Any wood staining/finishing people here?

I bought some cheap acacia outdoor tiles for my apartment balcony and I'm looking for the lowest effort coating or treatment to keep them from turning to shit.

They don't have to look good, just decent. I'm looking for the absolute bare bones stain or varnish or oil or whatever that will be the minimum effort to brush on once a year. I don't want something that I have to apply, leave for 2-3 days while it dries and then apply again. I don't want something that I have to sand off in order to reapply.

Anybody have any ideas? Would the easiest thing be to just touch up the stain whenever it starts fading off, or is it worth it to do something to protect the stain once it's on?

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>>2989618
Here's someone else's photo of how they look new versus how they look with the stain worn off... I almost prefer the weathered/unfinished look but IDK if there's an easy way to remove the stain when they're new and skip the ugly partially-worn state

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>>2989618
>>2989627
The first step would be identifying if they have any kind of protective finish. Like a varnish or lacquer or something. Once you know what you've got you can look into stripping that off.

As for protecting the wood, look into shellac. It is not super durable but you can basically just brush it on. Once it dries it is done. You want it tougher? Do additional coats. Oh no, it got damaged? Just brush on more. You can also tint it if you want some fancy colors or different shades.

Once thing, it is a byproduct from a bug, so it is not vegan. I mean, for me that is a plus but I know others don't like it. Don't get the fancy expensive bullshit stuff. Get the chips and make your own. It is cheaper.

>>2989627
sand or just let them go, will probably fade in a year anyways let the earth absorb its sweet nectar. else go with something for decks

>>2989618
Behr exterior penetrating oil, available at HD

>>2989627
100% tung oil or die.
Waiting 3 days and wiping the excess after 30-60 minutes is essential, no shortcuts.

>>2989558 (OP)
Having roof done. Contractor says moisture in attic. Rafters are all damp and need to be replaced for $$. Whip out my moisture meter and read 8%.

Is this guy a scammer or what?

>>2989752
Check the rafters. Are they wet? Are they coming apart, moldy, or damaged? Did you get a second and third opinion like a sensible person always does?

>>2989752
8% sounds suspicious. are you sure you trust your moisture meter? do you live in the desert or something?

>>2989752
if leak new, wet rafters are a non-issue
do you suspect rafters are deteriorated due to moisture intrusion from a longstanding leak, to the point where they are structurally compromised?
You check this with a screwdriver not a moisture meter.

>>2989762
>Check the rafters. Are they wet? Are they coming apart, moldy, or damaged?
No. And no.
>8% sounds suspicious. are you sure you trust your moisture meter?
It reads about 40% on a piece of bare plywood outside but under cover.
> do you live in the desert or something?
Washington State. But the attic is very well ventilated and it gets hot up there when the sun is out. So I figure the structure gets baked pretty well.
>do you suspect rafters are deteriorated due to moisture intrusion from a longstanding leak,
No leak evident. Contractor might think I'm an idiot and he's looking for more work. There's a few sheets of plywood that are a bit mushy where rain got driven under old shingles. But that's about it.

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>>2989863
Nta but neither measurement sounds reasonable, should be 10-30 for both unless were talking baked as in fire hazard hot. If it gets and stays under 15ish % and theres no rot visible you should be fine. Do a pick test with an awl or screwdriver.

>>2989744
Tung tung tung oil?

>>2989752
Tear the whole house down and repour the foundation. If it was 7% you'd be cool. What's your elevation above sea level and barometer?

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got this for like 3 dollars. i sharpened it and the edge is pretty good, but it's basically unusable with this hackjob front. any pointers on how to fix this? any advice is appreciated. also

>sand some random pieces of oak
>spray them with water so the wood hair raise
>rest them on some plastic brackets and angle iron since i had it lying around so why not
>come back 3 hours later, boards look dry
>flip them around
>every single one has this fucking huge purplish line on them, exactly where the steel was touching
now you can learn from my mistake

>>2990228
do a better job of joining the new nose. Probably choose taller material. Then take 1/16 off the entire bottom edge with a tablesaw. Chamfer the tip and wax.

idk I only use power tools

>>2990228
This is why you dont use nails with oak. Don't even use glue from a bottle that's been capped with a screw or nail even once in its life.
>>2990233
This is OK but should read "fix the large crack, then either cut off the nose or the entire sole, glue a new sole on and flatten using any available method."

>>2990250
Is this thread going to be 300 posts of pissing contest again?

I’m looking to make a chess board but all instruction videos tell me to glue laminate the light/dark strips then cut into new strips then flip 4 of them and glue up again. But that 2nd glue joint would be 100% end grain to end grain, right?
Should I do anything special to make that a good glue joint? Or do I just rely on the backing board for strength

>>2990304
You can have a backer sheet and a border to lock everything together.

>>2990274
well the crack IS a problem, even i can see that
>>2990233
>>2990250
thanks, i'll see what i can do. by the way that nose is screwed on

>>2990313
Well, you might want to get the base coplanar and stop the crack by the frog from propagating. Odds are the blade isn't sharp.

How about we take care of our tools before posting graphs and ripping roofs down? Pour tung oil on everything and hope tomorrow is better.

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I did a thing!
Where’s my
>WTF are you trying to do? What even is that?
Award, Reddit?

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>>2990334
i put mine in another bucket to keep it from imploding, nice work though, does it still work properly?

>>2990336
>tfw you made le funneyi shitpost feeling all smug and five minutes later someone figured it out what you where trying to do
It works quite good, it seems, but I have yet to acquire a cigarette to test it for leaks. Or maybe I should smoke my workshop again with incense (though it’s not as Smokey as a cigarette but smells better).
Hard to judge if it uses more power than my big, fixed double cyclone system. And I just need to figure out some kind of attachment to my vacuum, so I can wheel it around with it.

>>2990274
Thank you anon for pointing that out, I'll try to be less vindictive.

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why nobody posts projects anymore? todays project is a guitar stand that looks like a chair

Are there any cool accessories which go well with woodworking that I can 3D print?

So far all I've made which i semi-decent is a sanding paper block.

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>>2990804
corner radiuses (radii?) are pretty straightforward to draw up and make parametric for whatever sizes you want. what's your sanding block design? been meaning to make one all i'm using is a scrap with some velcro on each side

>>2990807
Sorry when I said I made, I mean I printed, not actually mine.

https://www.printables.com/model/563271-sanding-block-93x115-115x140

>corner radiuses
Thanks, might do one of these next.

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>>2990804
i also do a lot of picture frames, broke down and bought a logan 45° cutter for matboard but for the 90° cuts i settled on 2nd from the right. mostly just learning how to draw grips in cad and make it as compact as possible. i'm sure i did it wrong but saved like $40

>>2990808
how's the threads? i was thinking of making something with some sort of wedge action to hold the paper; my printer is an old lulzbot and not that accurate or fast for printing a bunch of different sizes blocks

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>>2990804
oh, various dust adapters too, no sense in paying for them just make sure you do like a 1-2° draft

>>2990804
I'm not sure about the right material to use but I'm pretty sure I've seen printed feather guides for table saws / band saws
A center finder / marker is easy as well, if you could get tight gearing you could make one that expands / contracts

Does printed plastic would hold up well against router bearings for jigs? You could easily print a wider / better base for a router plate tho. I think most people (myself included) hate how tiny they are out of the box and replace them

>>2990819
i've had no problems with my corner jigs and router bearings but printing something large and flat like a new router plate warps too much for me on the bed. something to keep in mind i guess. one day i'll get a co2 laser and go crazy on some acrylic; my diode laser just can't do it. unfortunately buying a co2 laser just for that though isn't really justifiable

>>2990797
i did but i'm extremely slow

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>>2990797
>why nobody posts projects anymore?
Those that do projects are too busy doing them and won't waste their time posting on a a basque mongoloiding forum and those posting here don't have time to actually do anything.
But beside snark comments, it seems like 4Chan died a bit more, again, I also see this at other generals that I'm visiting, we don't seem to get any new recruits anymore and us old hags… err oldfags maybe nowadays have other things to do, besides posting here.
Speaking of those other things:
The wife needed a sharpener for her chalk, for sewing.
Lessons learned:
>Don't trust stupid "make this fantastic thing in ten easy steps!" guides from the internet, aimed at folks who never /diy/ anything, besides their one branch they do (sewing in this case). It's gonna look like ass if you follow the instructions and it won't be easy.
>putting like 70 razor blades on a threaded rod sucks and takes forever, but i was trusting the first point. Should have gotten a non-threaded rod and a thread cutter, always wanted to have one of those
>my miter saw needs adjusting and it wobbles
>I'm too stupid to remember if I have to add my blade thickness, when measuring my cuts
>my freehand routing sucks ass
But all in all:
7/10
wife's happy and the result looks much better than the shit from the instructios I started with and I learned a thing or two.

>>2990889
>people who post on board/thread X don't actually do activity X
a tale as old as 4chan itself
anyway good job, looks like some homemade capacitor ready to explode

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>>2990228 here
after some work and injury i managed to take the nailed piece of wood off. pic rel is what was under it. i looked up some rabbet planes online and they seem to have a butterfly nut on top, with the bolt probably holding the front
i don't wanna just glue something in there, it feels like a hackjob, but honestly have no idea how should i even start on this

>>2990998
if you want to learn you want to learn, but you can get a new one of these for like $35

>>2990998
Use glue, chisels, sand, and the blade you have shown. The wood isn't going to work itself.

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finished, it may need some soft rubber stuff against slipping, does anyone know a rubber tape that sticks to wood?

>>2990889
looks pretty good but also kinda dangerous

> if I have to add my blade thickness, when measuring my cuts
Not sure but I think you should always measure and mark the exact length you want, and only adjust when it’s on the saw.

>>2991100
if you used an oil based finish forget about tape ever sticking, you'll need to attach some physical way

>>2991100
Weather strip and finish nails or double stick would work in a pinch.

>>2991100
felt or leather + brass upholstery tacks, can even put a little strip of foam or whatever underneath as a cushion

First time poster in /wwg/, ex carpenter here. How do you guys join your picture frame corners? I am just going to join it (with glue) then drill wooden dowls through each corner and cut them off flush

Finally starting to build up my workshop with all the necessary furnishing equipment. Feels good man

>>2991109
>>2991113
>>2991130
thanks for the tips anons, ordered some leather and I’ll use the upholstery tacks

>>2991155
hell yeah what kind of leather did you get?

>>2991154
v nailer, staple, or spline.
I quoted a pro 700 for a 10' cyclorama and they beat around they bush. It wouldn't have been worth dragging that stuff up the stairs for less than 2 grand.

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>>2991023
>>2991070
allrighty then

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Listen here holes, you will be plugged.

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sturdy bedframe

so I'm going to build a bed frame something like this except I'm using big pieces of ply instead of slats
still have centre channel support
sturdier feet
glue instead of metal screws (it's never coming apart)

but I can't figure out how to attach the headboard in a way that is super sturdy? basically shit gets crazy in the bedroom and we can't have any flex or movement.no creaking whatsoever. sparing the details of my construction I was thinking of a frame of oak, ply panels in the middle, ply oak headboard(routed)

not new to woodwork but limited tools in this shop
circ saw, plunge router, drill, enough money to buy maybe one more skin? mitre saw is no longer a tool I have access to

>>2991524
I tried to do one of these, but all I needed was a jigsaw. We were going to use 5/16x4.5" Spax lags to drill the headboard into stud, but it gets really wild in our bedroom. Since we'd already mortised the headboard into the frame and cut out the baseboard, we just gorilla glued it flush to the drywall.

>>2991528
brick house and while a built in panel would look nice it's not feasible. maybe I should just not have a headboard but It gets cold in my area

>>2991530
You could construction adhesive the frame to the floor, but that's a yucky polyurethane blend. Command strips or double stick tape will also do a really good job.

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why do tail vises often have this gap when closed?

>>2991524
>wood
>no flex or movement

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Built a shed last summer, treated the cladding with sikagard wood preserver. This is the result, mold penetrating right through some boards. Is there any way to treat this? Can I just paint over it or do I need to replace the effected boards? If so should I just paint it next time?