I've came across this video explaining the CRT advantage in drawing pixel-art and retrogaming in general: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2sxKJeYSBmI
At one point PVMs (Professional Video Monitors) and BVMs (Broadcast Video Monitors) are mentioned and they also seem to be the best out of all other types of CRTs due to their professional domain of activity.
Did you guys get the chance to find any of these for sale at a decent price today? Also got any recommendation for any specific brand or manufacturer?
Post your CRT setup
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Anonymous06/05/26(Fri)17:40:18
all you need is a 14 to 32-inch consumer-grade CRT from pretty much any manufacturer. pvms are a meme. rgb is a meme.
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Anonymous06/05/26(Fri)17:40:57
>>12616313(OP) Is this distinction between PVMs and consumer tvs a US thing? I know your consumer TVs had a third vibe about them. But over in Europe, the typical late era consumer CRT tv is pretty much as good as a PVM.
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Anonymous06/05/26(Fri)17:42:27
>>12616321 You say this like PVM is a generic term. They're a line of monitors from Sony. Only Sony made them.
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Anonymous06/05/26(Fri)17:45:31
>>12616313(OP) I've had a few, sold them all and switched to 15khz LCDs instead.
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Anonymous06/05/26(Fri)17:48:07
>>12616321 I'm from Eastern Europe, I was little when CRTs were still the norm but I remember seeing PVMs in places like hospitals and during political events.
They were kinda small though (smaller than a regular CRT) and this can become a feature in the context of modern housing/apartment (takes up less space and less heavy maybe)
>>12616313(OP) I have several pvms and bvms across various brands. I prefer a bigger screen these days. My jvc dtv is 27 inches and has component. I use a sony pc monitor cuz my jvc dtv is currently on the bench.
I've owned two of these, and while they are the most photogenic CRT of all time, and they have a nice smoked glass screen, they are just too darn small for serious gaming.
>>12616369 Judging by the IO on the back there are 2 channels for Video In, and I can only compare them from their shape to an antenna input (kinda strange since it's the worst signal we can get) What kind of adapter is needed to connect to it either Composite, S-Video or Component?
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Anonymous06/05/26(Fri)18:27:46
>>12616386 >University of Miami See this is exactly what I mean, these things were expensive and intended for professional/non consumer use. Playing games on them is silly, just get a converter/upscaler or play them on a CRT. Don't waste your money on nonsensical upcharged used things from 1994.
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Anonymous06/05/26(Fri)18:32:10
>>12616396 >pay $1000 for a 9" PVM >get a free 32" WEGA from the recycling center you'll never guess which one /vr/eddit would choose
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Anonymous06/05/26(Fri)18:32:15
Shaders are enough to respect the look of 2D games, despite what eBay resellers tell you.
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Anonymous06/05/26(Fri)18:32:22
>>12616396 That: >Made in Japan Makes the difference It's also not that expensive as I was expecting
>>12616369 But for the science, what kind of adapter would it need to attach to it regular consumer electronics to Video IN?
>>12616403 >That: >>Made in Japan >Makes the difference Back then a lot of the CRT's were made in Japan.
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Anonymous06/05/26(Fri)18:39:34
>>12616410 For an Europoor like me it does In Eastern Europe most CRTs are of Soviet fabrication, with some Chinese and maybe Turkish manufacturing
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Anonymous06/05/26(Fri)18:44:58
>>12616419 Don't you actually need a TV purpose built to be compatible with 50Hz electricity? So why not just get one of those European CRT's that can do PAL and NTSC? I still think your best bet a converter or scaler for a flat screen. CRT is overrated and impractical, ignore what people say about muh authentic retro experience. I had a CRT and used to play on it, I don't particularly want to go back and the only advantage is the response time. Good luck getting that shit repaired too, these are all 20 years old at least.
>>12616358 Not that anon, but a lot of CRT parts which are prone to failure (capacitors, resistors, transistors, fuses, diodes, etc) can still be replaced with newly manufactured parts, and even some more specific parts, like certain flyback transformers, can still be purchased new. The biggest problems are the tubes themselves, since they are no longer manufactured. People are still successfully repairing TVs which predate PCBs and use point to point construction
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Anonymous06/05/26(Fri)19:04:54
>>12616450 Now that looks like a Quantum Computer if I ever seen one. I know that they're prone do imminent death due to natural reasons of usage, but it would have been a nice piece of history to own one, a professional one, when it breaks I can just keep it as door stopper
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Anonymous06/05/26(Fri)19:08:01
>>12616441 Have you tried tactically hitting the device? >>12616386 It looks like some weird bnc connection but they are flat and I don't know what they are
>>12616475 >hitting the device To add, I mean hitting the side and/or top of the unit. Please do not hit the glass, and I am not responsible if you break your shit
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Anonymous06/05/26(Fri)19:55:19
>>12616441 That's probably interference in the video signal and has nothing to do with the CRT itself.
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Anonymous06/05/26(Fri)19:56:53
This thread seems full of well-meaning newbs.
I have owned about dozens of CRTs over the last 35 years. Of all different types. Ask me anything about CRTs.
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Anonymous06/05/26(Fri)20:00:50
>>12616558 When attaching a 4:3 console to a 16:9 rare CRT does it stretch the image by default or it renders with black bars as in modern TVs?
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Anonymous06/05/26(Fri)20:24:43
>>12616565 They have different video settings to stretch or letterbox, to get widescreen content to display right you have to get the game set to widescreen mode then get the right mode on your TV.
>>12616565 If it's a TV will have a variety of options to pillarbox, stretch, or zoom the image.
If it's a monitor like a GDM-FW900 it will have those options too, or you can adjust the screen raster manually. It's better to adjust the raster.
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Anonymous06/05/26(Fri)21:00:04
>>12616631 Don't look at models. Look at what they actually are. Look at the
>current condition This is most important. You don't want to waste your money on a CRT with so many hours on it the screen has dimmed or has burned in. This is a concern for professional grade CRTs. You don't want something that might harbor pests, or has been dropped and now has a faulty flyback. >original quality This is the next one. You want a CRT with a good power supply in it that won't bloom too much on bright scenes. This is 1. annoying 2. affects image quality in the brightest portions of the image This means avoiding brands that are the cheapest no-name brands that cut corners during manufacturing. However, every CRT has some level of blooming and automatic brightness limiting. On extremely bright scenes you should see it kick in. If it doesn't, that means it's either a very old CRT or it's not of good quality. >Screen size If I had to pick between a 19" composite-only television and a 12" RGB PVM I'd pick the 19" composite CRT every time. For comfortable gaming imho 19" is the lower end cutoff. I would consider the 21"-27" sizes the "golden range" for an even better experience. If you have the room, there is little reason to not go as big as possible with the 32" and larger units as long as you consider the previous concepts beforehand. Avoid rear projection CRT televisions until you're extremely well acquainted with normal CRTs. >screen type This doesn't actually matter that much. Shadow Mask/Aperture Grille/Dot Mask are all completely fine for all purposes. Just get a good CRT regardless of the screen mask type. >inputs This isn't as important as you think it is. It's great to have component or rgb, but screen size and condition are much more important. Even RF is a consideration if everything else about the CRT seems a match for your needs. >dot pitch/slot pitch Don't worry about this.
I've adjusted my screens geometry as best as I could through the service menu but I still cant get straight lines on things like message boxes or black bars in mode 7 scenes, there's always a bit of distortion. its not noticeable in most content so i live with it and enjoy the tv very much because its great otherwise but im curious about what's causing it. its a toshiba 14af45.
>>12616558 how bad is the flicker when attaching a console meant for a 15khz CRT TV, to a 31khz high end CRT monitor?
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Anonymous06/05/26(Fri)22:15:14
>>12616652 its part of the charm. also dont worry about things you have no control over, its wasted energy
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Anonymous06/05/26(Fri)22:25:20
>>12616680 I do but they're magnetically shielded, and this happens even if theyre off but i suppose i could try moving them out to see if it makes a difference
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Anonymous06/05/26(Fri)22:26:40
>>12616728 Yeah it doesnt really worry me anymore just thought i might as well inquire about it while theres a crt thread up
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Anonymous06/05/26(Fri)22:50:36
>>12616652 This affect should be less apparent with lower brightness, I mean the distortion itself won't be as strong. You can also scale the picture up so that the edges are cut off slightly, this was very common back then and developers didn't put important stuff on the edges of the picture.
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Anonymous06/05/26(Fri)23:17:21
>>12616724 A 31khz CRT cannot display a 15Jhz signal.
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Anonymous06/05/26(Fri)23:27:13
>>12616330 >>12616319 this the go to for N64 and Wii? I ask cause my local savers has a decent LCd with component and S-video I thought about picking up
>>12616325 Cope. Panasonic, Ikegami and JVC also had their own versions of "pro video monitors". So what if Sony came up with the name/abbreviation?
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Anonymous06/05/26(Fri)23:30:55
>>12616358 My 27" Trinitron ProFeel is from 1989 and still seems to work perfectly, colours and brightness are excellent.
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Anonymous06/05/26(Fri)23:35:46
>>12616403 >>12616410 I even have a ViewSonic (American company) PC CRT monitor from the year 2000 that was made in Japan. Maybe they rebadged stuff like how some Dell CRTs had the Trinitron label.
>>12616724 No difference at all unless the console was sending an interlaced signal, which is rare. If you are sending a 224/240p signal at 60hz then line doubling to 448/480p at 60hz will result in the same level of flicker.
going from 480i to 480p will have a minor psychological effect of seeming less flickery even though the screen is still refreshing 60 times a second regardless.
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Anonymous06/06/26(Sat)00:24:38
>>12616652 Have you used the service menu to reduce overscan as much as possible? This is an issue that you run into when you try to "recover" factory overscan.
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Anonymous06/06/26(Sat)00:25:39
>>12616856 OEM cables can easily be crap. Tell me what cables and what device you're using for your source.
>>12616313(OP) >Post your CRT setup Picrel is my ViewSonic E70f+sb, a bit dim without cranking up the contrast but I think it still looks fine
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Anonymous06/06/26(Sat)01:28:08
>>12616808 just about any CRT with composite will look fine. S-video, to my eye, is just as good as RGB, despite what the autists who wasted their money will tell you
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Anonymous06/06/26(Sat)01:29:52
>>12616810 When people say PVM, they're talking about Sony monitors. Yes, other manufacturers made professional-grade monitors as well. They're not called PVMs, they're called monitors.
Sony made a line-up of monitors called CVM. They are almost identical to the PVM lineup but usually lack the RGB inputs. They have TV tuners in them.
They're still of very high quality.
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Anonymous06/06/26(Sat)01:34:38
>>12616946 Interesting. They must be super rare and expensive.
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Anonymous06/06/26(Sat)01:35:28
>>12616779 yeah ive noticed the distortion fades away as the screen does during blackouts and transitions >>12616876 i just have it reduced to the point of not having the hud cut off in games
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Anonymous06/06/26(Sat)01:37:12
>>12616939 yeah but is an LCD good for wii and N64 or just a CRT with S-video?