/xs/ — /cg/ - Climbing General

Recently found out that if the skin on your fingers grows thicker, it sweats less (until it wears back down again). I started using some hand serum that supposedly makes your skin grow faster, and after a week it seems to be doing something, just barely.

>>258766
Wanted to follow up. Why every ten days? Any reason or just vibes? My routine is every two weeks, but in April I want to do twice a week, Mondays and Fridays. Yesterday I did 3 sets of 5 seconds, Friday I will do 4 sets of 5 seconds, then Monday I'll do 5 sets of 5 seconds. After that, I'll up the weight, between 1-2kg. Thoughts?

What's your routine like? how many sets on 20mm? 15mm? Do you train three finger drag or just half crimp? Since my last post, my max hang went up by 2.5kg, and it's been quite the fight.

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Trying out the hangboard meme.
I'm still certain board climbing is superior in every way but maybe it's a useful addition

it's been well established that climbing is dominated by white people and asians, but what are the ethnic groups which climb the least, and why?

>>259528
ROC reporting in. (Rockclimber of Color) ;)

I think it has a lot to do with cultural norms. The black community has a category for activities that seem absurd and which most blacks don't participate in. Most. These activities are referred to in jest as 'white people shit'. Rock climbing is standard WPS.

Other examples include sky diving, drawing penises on unconscious drunks, Steve Irwin type shit, and Jackass/masochist sorts of activities just to name a few.

I live in Chicago where we have a very large black community and the climbing scene remains 95% or more non-blacks. A lot of it has to do with simple exposure to the sport in an inviting way (which can be difficult for climbing since it's so painful/difficult at first).

Just keep climbing and inviting new people to check out the sport. It's been a white dominated sport since its conception, so a bit more waiting for inclusion and diversity won't hurt.

I've a dream to open up a climbing gym on the south side. Wish me luck.

>>259515
Board climbing is good if you're already strong. If you're not already strong, hangboarding is a great way to get strong. I know lots of people that deadass can't even do V5 on kilterboard unless it's like a 35 degree angle, let alone a moonboard.

Usually its pro-climbers, and asshats doing this for 5-10+ years who're like, "bro just climb to get better at climbing", but those guys forget what it's like to be weak, and forget they didn't always have a board near them to train. So they reap the benefits of a training board without recognizing that they already passed the threshold to make it useful.

A proper analogy would be training for weightlifting. For the intermediate-advanced trainee, high volume programs are amazing for getting you strong. But for beginners? They're better off doing splits that have you train 3-4 days a week. In much the same way you don't give buckaroo billy the Arnold 7 day split program with 3 hour workouts each day, I don't expect the average novice to low-intermediate climber to thrive on a board that they are not physically strong enough to benefit from.

>>259515
>>259557
V4-V5 plateaucel here
I've never tried hangboarding, what actually is it? How do I do it? So far I've just been.. well, climbing. Trying new stuff when I can but mostly perfecting routes I can already do. How do I incorporate hangboarding/get stronger?

>>259558
>I've never tried hangboarding, what actually is it?
Training your fingers to get used to hanging on small edges.

>How do I do it?
Rant incoming, short answer is - look up a protocol, overload it over time, take it slowly.

For background, have at least 1 year climbing experience. There's a million god damn protocols. Also, most of them are unfortunately found on YouTube and reddit, in communities that have no fucking clue how to program exercises properly. You'll find many "regimens", but none of them prescribe anything beyond a basic template of how a workout should be performed. Max hangs, repeaters (3-57 ladders, or 7 on, 3 off for 5 reps), small edge hangboarding, blah. Most people don't talk about how often to do it, when to backoff, etc. Training books sometimes cover it, but climbers aren't known for reading.

Basically, just find a 20mm edge and aim to hang off it with bodyweight. If you can do that, add weight. Max hangs with 5-7 second increments work fine. Just look up random protocls and see what people do. Increase weight slowly over time, like really slowly. Every 3rd hangboard session basically. (at least that's what I do)

>Trying new stuff when I can but mostly perfecting routes I can already do.
That's fine. It's normal for progress to slow down. You can keep climbing to get strong. Nothing wrong with that. Hangboard is a supplement, not the main driver.

>How do I incorporate hangboarding/get stronger?
Just ask other anons. I didn't start hangboarding until 4 years into climbing. I was already getting through my plateau, but it made it much easier to consistently not plateau.

I've accepted that I'll never be able to climb due to injuries so I treat it like a spectator sport. Hopefully there's a gym near me where I can just chill and cheer people on without being expected to actually climb myself. Bouldering is my jam, not too interested in watching people do lead but I understand all of it takes some variant of skills and physique.

world climbing asia championship

https://www.youtube.com/live/JhXONbTNJWE

my goat ai mori btfos the competition.
also some of the japanese climbers are cute :)

I'm starting to become such a simp for Maddie Richardson. I hope she'll make it to the podiums this year.

>>259591
Do these ever have EN commentary alternatives?
I know a bit of Japanese (enough to be fine watching JMSCA) but no Chinese at all

>>259591
Damn, Ai Mori dominating HARD
Also Mandala best shoes confirmed

>>259591
https://www.youtube.com/live/PgyStgBLEXc

ai also won the lead finals.
she's the only one to top the route btw.

>>259569
I wish you the best anon, by all means go watch
my personal struggle is that I love watching other people climbing when resting between attempts but I'm always worried that women will think I'm staring at them in a creepy way vs just enjoying watching people climb. If you have a fat ass I'm looking at it though

tfw injured my wrist
it's over

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>is based in your path

>>259658
I found out there's no gyms in my area at all - the nearest one that offers anything resembling a wall is more than 25km west. Kind of a shame.
I have IFSC youtube and the quality is very all over the place. Every new event either has nonstop praise for the camera/commentary or just burying it for how bad it is. Like they just ask a random person at each event to coordinate it for them instead of a dedicated editing crew.

>>259658
It's impressive to watch better climbers climb. I hope everyone in the gym agrees and understand.
Just trying to understand how they climb is a big thing.
Whenever it feels like people are watching my beginner ass I get self conscious though.

>>259721
>Whenever it feels like people are watching my beginner ass I get self conscious though.
I used to be like this but now I do stuff that's steezy enough that I enjoy an audience

What is the reason why certain boulder climbers will opt to not bring a chalk bag with them? Sometimes the commentators will point out that they're losing grip and trying to get some from the back of their pants but have no way to reinforce it.

>>259846
asians claim they don't sweat so they don't need chalk, which completely misses the point of what chalk is for

>>260116
I don't believe it's about that, because
>they still sweat, they just have less apocrine sweat glands
>some athletes are specifically more sweaty than others (Miho)
but most importantly
Tthe times I heard this, it was white/euro athletes being discussed by commentary who pointed out the bag was left on the mats before the attempts. I wondered if they didn't like that it swung loose behind them and acted as an extra source of gravity.

>>260131
But, realizing now that I typed it, the thing can't be more than a pound by itself. There's something to this preference, and I might have to ask around.

People who say technique is what's holding me back on moonboard are so full of shit. I start a hangboarding routine, and immediately send my project within 3 weeks. Cruxes feel so much easier, I'm not pumping myself out on each and every single move. Can't believe I got baited into thinking that tension alone would've made me a V8 climber.

Technique/tension still massively important though, but it's insane how much a simple 7lb increase in max-hanging made those crimps feel.

I've tried to get a few women into cloombing but they all went a couple of times and then stopped. I wasn't acting like a betaspraying sperg either, just let them climb for fun and helped if they asked for it.
Is climbing male-coded?

>>260156
It's hard to find the type of girl actually interested in physical activity. You have to have a very specific, autism-geared mind to enjoy it. Most girls, especially the most beautiful ones, loathe exercise in any and all forms.

Not a single girl I've dated has fallen in love with climbing. Closest I've found was a girl into powerlifting, but climbing "interfered with recovery..." so yeah. Wishing you luck anon. Maybe you can be the lottery winner.

>climbing partner moves
>go to the gym’s partner finder board and notice they added a column for pronouns
>text the only one who didn’t list his pronouns
>he’s been the most reliable climbing partner I’ve ever had
Maybe I’ll change my mind about tranny behavior if it helps sort out the freaks this easily

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>>260161
More on this, I'm talking to a girl right now and she wants to avoid gaining ANY muscle whatsoever. Afraid to do squats even, just to warm up. It's crazy.

Why do these fuckers have so many youtube channels
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mAGheuYrXSU

Also give me some stuff that's not as big brand with sponsors everywhere

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>see guy working at my usual gym at another gym
>"you haven't been climbing for 4 days in a row have you? if you did i'd be worried"

>>260156
women and climbing is an interesting one to me. My climbing centre is about 2/3 male/female, and the better looking girls all seem to come almost exclusively as part of one-off groups and aren't particularly good. I just find it odd that there seems to be an inverse correlation between how dedicated a girl gets with climbing and how good looking she is.

>>260272
My experience is the better girls is the hotter she is as well. This trend continue until 7B where suddenly there is a massive drop off and she is a dude in yoga pants.
Those 7A hotties tho...

Bros I think I fucked up and got an TFCC injury, how do I reduce the pain and get the strength back? I have a comp on Saturday.

>>260318
walk it off

>>260318
same I got a TFCC injury 3 weeks ago and it still hurts, it's over, I put my climbing gym membership on hold for two months

>>260318
>>260343
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WqgP7DD-wEg
Look up rehab exercises, do them religiously. Cuts 3 weeks off of expected healing time. Massage the area whenever possible. Hot water baths for your hands once a day.

>>260363
yeah I found this video and the one by hooper's beta, the exercises seem to help. I wonder if this is going to be one of those injuries that gets to a point where it's healed but you have to retrain your nervous system to get back your full range of motion.

>>260397
Hooper made a good video about how pain =/= injury, and that oversensitivity can develop, so that wouldn't surprise me.

>>260156
I've seen some girls come in to the climbing gym but after they catch me staring at them they never come back.

>>260220
Kai Whaley
Tension Climbing
Wedge Climbing

>>260272
It's opposite at my gym. The hotter ones are really good, there is this one zoomer girl, super hot, climbs like v11. All the dumpy ones are just ok at best

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Last year I posted a kind of live blog while attempting to rope solo Rooster Rock. That was on the /out/ climbing general which is dead now (rip). I had to bail after the first pitch when my twine lanyard disintegrated.

Now I'm back to try it again, with a proper lanyard this time. First up is this lovely approach along the side of the freeway.

>not your personal blog
You will just have to bear it. I believe in you.

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Anchor installed. This is how a bowline is supposed to look, right? I'm relying on you for the buddy check.

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Ready to climb I guess. Climber's strand goes to the tree anchor; brake strand goes through the microtrax and then down into a big pile. The trax is to prevent rope drag and hopefully ensure that the grigri locks in a fall.

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I brought rubber bands this time to trap the rope so the weight of it doesn't pull slack through the grigri. First pitch is climbed and now I gotta clean and reclimb.

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The weather could not be better. Climbing is so damn fun bros. Just me, open air, and the bullshit 4chan captcha.

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Here's the TRS setup, if anyone is curious. Trax looks kinda weird pressing up against the grigri like that but I can't think of any reason why it would be a problem.

File: PXL_20260429_220744903.jpg (3.34 MB, 2464x3280)

Starting up p2. This is a trad pitch, but the climbing is even easier. There's a traverse at the top so I'll have to do some kind of redirect while cleaning.

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And I'm up. Gorgeous view. Somehow there's a serviceberry bush up here with butterflies on it. I can see an osprey nest below me by the river. And these turkey vultures floating around. Maybe they saw my LRS setup and decided to stay close.

Anyway at this point I would love to rap/clean and be done with it but because of the traverse I'll have to rap, refix, clean, reclimb, and then rap again.

File: PXL_20260429_225909593.jpg (2.76 MB, 3072x4080)

And I'm back on the ground. After my first rappel I realized with some alarm that my rope was only just long enough after the refix. I usually bring a 60m for this route but fortunately I had an 80m today. I should have realized when I fixed the rope at the summit right on the middle mark. I didn't bother to pull the rope so it's just good luck that I decided to knot the end of the slack line. As if anyone needed another reminder.

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Back to the car now. Overall a great day out. The system worked surprisingly well after all the trouble I've had in the past. The springiness of my bungie neck loop really helped to prevent the grigri from locking while on lead, I think, and it fed smoothly the entire time. Although this setup >>260795 was indeed scuffed as the microtrax would lock before the grigri and put stress on the sheath and make it impossible to lower. The point of this climb was to familiarize myself with multipitch LRS climbing in advance of some international travel so I can climb there even if I can't find a partner. It took 3.5hr car to car, which is only a bit longer than it takes me with a partner.

When I see a westerner post an indoor boulder video, it's usually got really soft grading. Why is that?
t. Slav

>>260814
How many pitches is that? And would you do this on a hard route you might actually have some falls on?

>>260858
This was only two pitches. I would not climb a hard route with this system because I have never tested it in a lead fall (although I'm confident that it would work). For those routes I prefer to climb something adjacent and set up a top-rope solo. I hate falling in general and usually stick to easy multipitch, which for me is the best of both worlds.

For now my focus is on speed improvements and learning how to deal with outlier scenarios so that I can climb longer routes. For instance I need to have a plan for what to do when passing or being passed by other parties.

>>260857
Afaik it's mostly North American and Australian gyms.
East Asian gyms are hardcore and European ones are kinda inbetween

>>260874
East asian gyms aren't hardcore, they just have a different grading system entirely, one that emphasizes mastery. A japanese "V2" at B-Pump Ogikubo is not actually a V2 in any real sense that a westerner would say it is, so calling it sandbagged isn't right.

If you go to a gym whose sets are on par with moonboard grades, I'd say you're in a good place. For me, my home hym grades moonboard - 2. So a V6 at my gym is like a V4 moonboard. When I travel up-state and go to my friend's gym, they grade on par, so a V4 is actually as hard as a V4 on moonboard, so pretty damn challenging (unlike regular gyms where V4s and V5s can be flashed).

One gym in the city I live by grades soft as hell. V6s can be flashed. But ultimately, you can do progressive overload anywhere. Just use board climbs to standardize shit.
>Fuck gyms that grade with ranges. fuck them to death